The No Exfoliation Club - are you a member and should you be?
Ahhh exfoliating. There’s something just so satisfying about buffing away those top layers of dead skin cells. The smoothness of whats revealed afterwards. It’s so good for your skin. Right?!
Wrong.
While some gentle forms of exfoliation should have a place in your skin wellness practice, daily, every second or third day or sometimes even weekly is too much! (I say sometimes to the weekly option as some people can benefit from once a week exfoliating).
But why? You thought exfoliating was the holy grail of skincare didn’t you? IT HELPS YOUR PRODUCTS ABSORB BETTER. THOSE SKIN CELLS ARE DEAD.
No sis. Those skin cells aren’t dead, and they’re actually playing an important role in the function of your epidermis.
So let me talk to you about the No Exfoliation Club, or the Seldom Exfoliation Club.
When your skin is functioning optimally, that is the skin cells are making their life cycle journey from keratinocyte (brand new plump and juicy baby skin cells born at the base of the epidermis) to corneocyte (those presumed ‘dead’ skin cells at the top), their number one function is always to protect the DNA of and the cells beneath them, specifically and especially the mother cells that are replicating and birthing these cell babies, so they are all born healthy and able to function properly. The very top layer of skin cells, the corneocytes, play a vital role in this protection as they are actually the cells IN CONTACT WITH THE OUTSIDE WORLD, so they send messages down to the lower layers to let them know what type of protection is required or at what rate cells should be produced, etc.
By taking them away too early, rather than allowing them to naturally desquamate (shed themselves naturally when they are ready to), you are breaking the chain of communication from surface to base, which leads to long term consequences including sensitisation, inflammation, pigmentation and increased ageing.
Huh? I thought exfoliating made my skin better?
Exfoliating gives your skin an immediate smooth feeling, which in the short term feels good, but long term and over time you are actually just exposing immature skin cells to the outside environment before they are ready. This means less protection and improper communication to lower layers, as these cells haven’t cornified (become flattened dry cells meant for the outside world) properly.
Healthy, well functioning skin should actually not require ANY exfoliation, however your skin may be in a state that requires some (alongside other practices) to help it become healthier and function properly before you can throw away the exfoliant altogether.
Your top layer of skin cells, the corneocytes, live and function in an optimal environment that is well hydrated. They also have little enzymes that they live alongside, who’s job is to help the corneocytes desquamate naturally, by breaking the bonds that hold them together. However without water, enzymes don’t work properly. So your skin requires a nice watery environment to not only look good (healthy, hydrated skin) but to enable natural desquamation - once the corneocytes are ready to shed they will, and the next layer underneath will now be ready to be the top layer!
Exfoliating, when done too often or incorrectly, can actually cause a build or excess of corneocytes, who are unable to naturally desquamate. This is due to the removal of your skin’s natural oil and water barrier, meaning your skin’s surface is left dehydrated, the enzymes now unable to work causing a build up of excess skin cells. This is most commonly referred to as congestion or blackheads. These then have the propensity to become inflamed breakouts and even acne. And then without proper skin education, we think we can exfoliate our acne away!!! Can you see the dangerous cycle this is?
Increased pigmentation is another problem that is associated with over exfoliation, and another that we are told exfoliation is the answer to! By over exfoliating and taking away the skin’s protective barrier, you are taking away the protection that the lower cells and melanocytes (cells that produce pigment) need. Unless properly supported with the correct in clinic treatments and skincare ingredients, you can’t just “buff away” your sun damage.
More rapid ageing is another by-product of over exfoliation, due to the increased inflammation that occurs which puts the skin in a constant state of stress, however exfoliating is once again sold as the magic potion to anti-ageing.
It’s a minefield isn’t it? So what should you be doing?
The first thing I tend to suggest to my clients is hydrating the skin. And enabling your skin to hold hydration. This is a 2-fold approach and includes topical and nutritional aspects. You need to be taking a daily essential fatty acid supplement. That is a non negotiable, and it needs to include not only omega 3 but also 6, as it is omega 6 which builds your skin barrier from the inside out. This is my favourite EFA and part of my skin wellness practice daily.
Next you need to topically hydrate your skin. This should include hydrating ingredients in your skin care products including hyaluronic acid, squalene, d-panthenol and barrier creams made to replicate the ceramides and lipids found in the skin. Dermaviduals is the skincare range I choose to work with to hit all those marks. Secondly I suggest soaking your skin morning and night, after cleansing. To do this I like to use the 5x5 rule. Soak a Muslin cloth in warm water, hold it to your face and take 5 deep breaths. Rinse and repeat 5 times. This will greatly increase the topical hydration of your skin and reduce blackheads and congestion as well as plump fine lines and ensure your skincare products are better absorbed.
Finally, throw out products (or stop buying them) that damage and breakdown your skin’s barrier, such as foaming cleansers, harsh exfoliants and highly fragranced products. Take a look at my virtual consultation offerings if you would like a skin wellness practice designed for your optimal skin health and longevity.
And get curious. I’m always open to a skin chat. If you have a quick skin question my Instagram DMs are always open - if you want a full consultation then please choose a consultation option via my website but if you just have a quick question I’m more than happy to help!
Much love,
Romy xx